XO's CORNER: PYROTECHNIC GRENADE CONSTRUCTION

 

MATERIALS LIST:

Plastic Easter eggs (large variety), Masking tape, Slow burn cannon fuse, Baking soda (as an optional filler), Hodgdon Black powder or Pyrodex Muzzle loading Propellant, Leatherman Tool (or similar tools), Super glue (or plastic cement, or hot glue gun), Commercial firecracker kit (or M-80 type firecrackers), Flat OD green spray-paint

1. Using a punch or other tool, make hole in the tip of one half of the egg the diameter of the fuse by drilling it out best as possible. Do this to all the eggs you plan on using. Do not make the hole too large.

2. Construct the bursting charges from the firecracker kits available from Firefox or other sources offering fireworks parts kits or pick them up at shows such as the Knob Creek MG shoot. You may also use commercial firecrackers such as the M60, M90, or M100, but these will not give you as good of an effect as the kit variety. In lieu of these, a half teaspoon of Pyrodex or black powder wrapped in 3 or 4 layers of aluminum foil and wound/formed into a ball will suffice. Attach the fuse at the open end. For the purpose of this tutorial, we will use the kit variety. Skip to step 6A if you are using commercial firecrackers.

3. Using the punch tool again, make a small hole the diameter of the fuse in the center of the bursting charge tube from the firecracker kit.

4. Apply a small amount of glue to the inside of the tube around the perimeter of one end only. Firmly attach the cap from the kit in this end of the tube and glue securely. A tight fit is needed for the device to work properly. Make sure the cap, be it paper or plastic; is well seated.

5. Fill the tube with the filler (pyrodex in this case) being sure not to overfill and therefore allow room for the capping of the other end. You may need to use a small funnel or shaped paper to get the grains into the tube. The kit used in this case is 5/8 inch diameter by 2 inches long "M-80" component. It should not take more than one teaspoon of propellant to fill your bursting charge no matter what.

6. Insert a length of fuse into the charge that is long enough to protrude at least one full inch outside the egg. The total fuse length should be about 3 to 4 inches total; 1/2 inch enclosed in the bursting charge, another 1 1/2 inches to the inner shell of the egg, and another inch+ exposed on the outside for lighting. The typical green waterproof cannon fuse available at surplus stores, antique firearms dealers, or muzzle loading suppliers has a burn rate of 2 to 3 seconds per inch, giving you an average burn time of about 5 to 9 seconds. Use enough fuse so that you have enough time to light it and throw it without risking it going off in your hand or in the air, but do not use so much that it sits and burns for more than a second or two before detonation; as any amount of time longer than that affords the target the opportunity to throw it back. Never pick up a burning grenade.

6A. The completed bursting charges, as viewed next to a commercial M-60. Note; if using a commercial firecracker, you will need to lengthen the fuse by splitting a length of cannon fuse and splicing it to the M-60 or equivalent firecracker.

7. Insert the fuse through the hole in the end of the egg from the inside. It should protrude out of the outside of the shell as pictured.

8. OPTIONAL: Fill the OPPOSITE end of the egg nearly full with baking soda. Make sure there is no moisture in it and that it is not above the inner rim. The baking soda is a just a filler to add weight. DO NOT use sand, rock, clay or anything else that could do harm. A glob of hot glue in the base is another option to add weight.

9. Carefully piece the 2 halves together. Place the end with the charge on top of the end with the baking soda filler (if used) and snap the two together. At this point, take care not to shake or drop the "grenade" as it can damage the fuse assembly or break it open altogether.

10. Apply a ribbon of masking tape to the seam where the 2 halves meet all around the diameter as pictured. Press it firmly in place and be sure it is on securely.

11. Add a small amount of glue to the fuse where it sticks out of the top of the egg. Apply it around the diameter of the hole in the egg to hold it in place, waterproof the opening, and ensure there are no gaps for the baking soda to "leak" out.

At this point the "grenade" is assembled and ready to paint.

12. To paint multiple grenades at once with ease, clothes pin the fuses onto a cloths hanger and hang outside. Give them a good coating of flat OD green paint. The paint can and will scratch off with some ease so treat them gently until you are ready to use them. *There is a new type of Krylon spray paint made specially for plastic that bonds to the material. It is available from Walmart and home supply stores. While it is not available in Olive Drab # 7 it is available in hunter green and black. Either of these will work fine, black is perfectly suitable.

After drying, the grenades are to be used only at a distance where they cannot be picked up and thrown back. (Do not let them burn too long or land too close to the target.) While the charge is not large enough to do major harm and the outer shell adds protection, they are a pyrotechnic device and can cause powder burns. As soon as the fuse is lit, throw it at as high an arc as possible to ensure the fuse more time to burn in the air. These are best carried in a GP bag or other firm canvas web gear. They can be crushed with pressure and the fuse can be sensitive to bending. Store in a cool, dry place. Do not use if brush fires are probable.

DO NOT USE ALTERNATIVE FILLERS OR PROPELANTS! ANY ALTERATIONS FROM THE ABOVE MAY RESULT IN UNWANTED EFFECTS. WE ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY ACCIDENTS OR NEGATIVE EFFECTS RESULTING BY BUILDING ANY OF THE PREVIOUSLY MENTIONED COMPONENTS OR COMPLETE ASSEMBLIES; OR FROM THEIR USE! WHEN USED PROPERLY THESE DEVICES ARE SAFER THAN THE BLANK AMMO YOU USE IN YOUR RIFLE, DESPITE WHAT SOME MIGHT HAVE YOU BELIEVE.