How do blank rounds in the M1 Garand work?

Blanks and blank firing adapters, also known as BFA's are used in conjunction with WWII era small arms. This is to say that you are adapting a live firearm to function with blank ammunition as if it were firing live rounds. No projectile ever leaves the barrel. We do not use airsoft, bb guns, cap guns, dummy replicas, nerf guns or bottle rockets whatsoever. The M1 Garand, a primary small arm used in WWII and in reenacting is one of the easiest weapons to blank adapt. This is done with a simple screw on BFA that can be easily applied/removed with a typical M3A1 combo tool or screwdriver. They screw onto the end of the muzzle and lock in place using the gas screw. They are not permanent nor do they affect the function of the weapon once removed. They can be found at gun shows and at gun parts suppliers such as SARCO and NORTHRIDGE INC.

Another type of BFA for the M1 Garand is the "Hollywood" blank adapter or "one piece" adapter. These are currently available from GUIETTE MFG. (at the very bottom of the page). These are the best BFA’s for the M1 Garand and also the safest. They can also be found from time to time on E-Bay.

How do blanks in the M1 Carbine work?

Blank adapting the M1 Carbine is a more intense and somewhat permanent process. It requires the barrel to be tapped. Tapping a barrel means drilling threads into the muzzle to accept an internal BFA. This is a permanent modification to the barrel. The process of tapping an M1 Carbine is however the most effective way to blank adapt your M1 Carbine for use at events.

First off, your selection of a weapon to adapt is important. Nearly any barrel can be tapped and fitted for blank operation. An extensive "how-to" detailing the process can be found here. This should be done by a competent gunsmith with some milling experience.

This modification to the barrel and will effect accuracy when shooting live ammo, especially when fired at distant targets. However, given the effective range of the carbine, target shooting with the weapon and effects on its accuracy should be of little worry. The major concern over this is weather or not you want to "ruin" an original WWII or Korean War era barrel by tapping it. It will degrade the resale value of an original; but can actually BOOST the value if resold to another re-enactor to use for the same purpose. This is why I recommend leaving your Underwood, Inland, Winchester, etc. Carbine in the wall locker and getting a post war manufacture Plainfield M1 Carbine.

By tapping a postwar Carbine, you are saving money, and not degrading the value of an original weapon. Avoid the postwar Universal and IMI carbines, as they are unreliable (by my experience) and do not accept GI parts as easily as the Plainfield (in some cases). Bear in mind that in purchasing a Plainfield post-war M1 Carbine you will have to replace some of the parts to bring it back into WWII configuration. Most of the WWII era carbines were also refitted after the war with the new series of parts. To get a Carbine back into its M1 WWII configuration; some parts changes and modifications may include:

Replacing the M2 round bolt with an M1 flat bolt.

Replacing the adjustable ramp rear sight with the Type 1 flip or; also known as "L" sight.

Replacing an M2 "Potbelly" or postwar civilian stock with a WWII "Hi-wood" stock.

Replacing the 4-rivet hand guard with 2-rivet. Match the wood finish to that of the stock if possible should you end up with stock that doesn't include the hand guard.

Replacing the Type 2 or Type 3 barrel band (the Type 3 features the bayonet lug) with a Type 1 barrel band. This will require the removal of the front sight aperture.

You may wish to replace the post war style flip safety lever with the WWII style push button safety. This is not a difficult process but the difference is indistinguishable at more than a few yards away and the flip safety is said to be more reliable. Either one is acceptable.

Sources for the parts can readily be found online at the following parts suppliers or at militaria and gun shows such as the Knob Creek MG Shoot, OVMS Show of Shows, and National Gun Day. Online suppliers include Sarco Inc. E-Gunparts Northridge Inc. and E-Bay.

Where do I get blank ammunition?

Most WWII small arms function with few or no problems using blank ammunition. Crimped blanks do not send any projectile along the lines of a bullet out of the muzzle but are still dangerous at very close range. Special care should still be taken and safety regulations followed when using blank ammo. Treat every weapon as if it were loaded.

There are several places to purchase blank ammunition including WW2 Blanks and Joe Swanson Motion Picture Blanks (recommended). Joe Swanson has the best blanks out there, and prices that can’t be beat for the high quality they offer. Orders may be placed via US mail. By ordering more ammo at once, rather than 100 or 200 rounds at a time, shipping is cheaper. Generally, depending your combat behavior and more importantly the type of event, a new recruit may go thru roughly 100 rounds of .30-06 blanks running an M1 Garand per event. Some events might only see you fire 3 or 4 clips; others, 3 or 4 bandoleers. Again, this is a rough estimate that depends on your combat behavior and the type of event. However, you can never have too much ammo. You do not want to run out.

What type of M1 Helmet should I use and where do I get one?

You have a few options for helmets, you can use an original, a postwar, or a refurbished M1 helmet that may contain a mix of original, postwar, or reproduction components. There are a number of suppliers for helmets, including J. Murray, Inc. ATF (At the Front) and Top Pots. You can also find them (typically the steel pots) at surplus stores and fit them with liners, chin straps, and paint jobs of your choice. Either fixed or swivel bail pots are acceptable. A "bail" refers to the type of attachment of the chin strap to the steel shell.

Olive Drab #7 green paint jobs with cork or sand finish are preferred. You will find that there are multiple color configurations for WWII helmets, so if the shade paint on your helmet doesn't exactly match one in a photo, don't worry about it.

The 5th Ranger diamond will be painted on the back of your helmet at your first event whenever possible for free, and is highly recommended You DO NOT need to include the decal on your helmet if you order from a supplier that provides them. If you would prefer to paint your own helmet diamond, contact your company CO for the type, color, and dimensions of the 5th Ranger Battalion diamond and rank bar (if applicable) markings. Other "custom" helmet markings may be allowed but you should consult your squad leader or CO first.

Where do I find field uniforms?

The 5th Rangers wore the Wool M1937 and latter pattern uniforms almost exclusively over any other type. While the 2nd Ranger Battlion wore HBT trousers and fatigues on D-Day the 5th Rangers wore wools. However; HBT trousers or M1943 Standard (un-modified) trousers are acceptable for some tactical events under certain conditions.

Uniforms are available from a number of vendors, and may be both original and/or reproduction manufacture. Original wools are still around and not terribly expensive. There are many manufacturers and dealers that cater to the WWII reenacting community and finding pieces for your basic impression should not be a problem. Here is a very short list of WWII uniform and equipment vendors:

WWII Impressions - High cost; high quality reproduction US uniforms and gear.
At the Front - Reproduction uniforms and gear with a decent price/quality ratio.
What Price Glory - Great equipment source; with some good finds on uniforms.
Bayonet Inc. Reasonable prices on reproduction U.S. web gear of decent quality.
1940 Dog Tag Chains - Alex Solera's repro early war dog tag chains.
Paul Nason Dog Tags- Repro notched dog tags.
E-Bay Original and Reproduction items sold at auction. Beware of fakes and high-balls.

For a more substancial list on our site, click here.

What are HBT's and what do they have to do with Rangers?

HBT or "Herring Bone Twill" (referring to the type of material used) are a lightweight series of field fatigues that were not heavily used by the 5th Rangers in combat. They are the historically correct garment for the 2nd Rangers on D-Day and dry much faster than wools. However, Wools are required for D-Day public events and are the standard combat uniform of the 5th Rangers thru the majority of the war. Original WWII wools are still available for decent prices. You can still find them much cheaper than reproductions at military shows and on E-Bay from time to time.

The specifics on wool trousers are: Trousers, Field, Wool, M1937 and are mustard green/brown in color.

HBTs, being cooler and lighter than wools are allowed at tactical events, and can be used in conjunction with a wool M1937 or M1942 shirt and field jacket of some type. The typical field jacket of the 5th Rangers was the M1941 Field Jacket. It can be worn overtop of HTB and/or wool field uniforms.

What about dress uniforms?

These are considered a "2nd level" impression item that is not required for your first event but something you will need for other events that will extend beyond the battlefield. Many times we will hit local diners or eat out with other re-enactors in "Class A" dress. Again, this is a uniform where originals or reproductions are acceptable. You can get repro "Ike" Jackets from some of the vendors above, or get an original in your size possibly. The Ike Jacket is the prefered Class A uniform jacket for your Class A dress. Setup your impression around your Ike Jacket as that of a VE-Day timeframe. Rank, ribbons, and badges are awarded based on the criteria in the TO&E (Table of Organization and Equipment) which is available to all new recruits.

What is the TO&E, or Table of Organization and Equipment?

This is a set of rules and regulations outlining the basic setup of the organization, its procedures, rank structure, uniform and equipment guidelines and tons of other general information, described in depth. It is available to any new member upon filling out a membership application or to anyone interested in joining the unit; by request. New members will get their e-copy of the TO&E and continue to get updates to it so long as they are on the unit roster. A hard copy is available by mail if so desired. To request a copy of the document OUTSIDE of submitting a membership application, please send a request, including the reason for requesting a copy if you are not a potential member, via e-mail here.

What happens my first time in the field?

For a new member's first event with the Battalion, it is important to prepare yourself before hand as much as possible. Read over the basic Infantry Field Manual (FM 21 100) if you have one available and familiarize yourself with hand signals, rank, and the tips listed here as best you can. The veteran members will take care of you at your first event and give you a few events to get accustomed to "combat" and how it all works if you are entirely new to the hobby. You're own pace of participation and learning will determine you involvement at the squad level.

The following sites are a BIG help to new members, and we recommend you familiarize yourself with some of their content:

Hard Scrabble Farm WWII
Strictly G.I.

You should be adept with the function and use of your primary arm before your first event as a rifleman. Spend some time at the range firing in different positions and practice loading your weapon, clearing jams, cleaning it, etc. before you get in the field. If you do not have a weapon for your first event one may be provided for you. The function and features of the weapon will be demonstrated to you prior to using it. For you to keep pace with the squad you must be combat effective and know how to operate your weapon on your own.

Do I need prior training?

No professional training is required before your first event. Its recommended that you have as much of your basic kit as possible along with a weapon; a general knowledge of WWII, specifically the ETO and US Army Rangers in WWII, and your jump boots. Hand signals and rank can be picked up from reading (see above) along with some of the other skills.

This hobby can be physically demanding. You need to be in good enough shape to pack a 10lb rifle and around 30lbs or more of gear and ammo for 3 to 8 hours in your uniform and jump boots. over uneven terrain in varying weather conditions. You need to be able to sprint distances of 10 to 100 yards in your full kit without stopping.

What are the "Rules of Engagement"?

The battle rules and regulations differ per event and event organizers. Overall, safety regulations included not shooting directly at someone within 25 feet (point you weapon well above and to the left or right of them) Keep your safety on until told to click off or "go hot" and practice safe firearms handling. Do NOT load your weapon until you are told to do so. If you have a question or problem, ask an officer or NCO. Take care of your weapon and your gear; they will take care of you. Other more specific rules and regulations that pertain to that specific event will be explained prior to going into the field.

What are the costs of this hobby?

The total cost for WWII Ranger impression depends on your MOS (your type of impression) and where you purchase your items from. Some impressions include medic, rifleman, machine gunner, ammo bearer, assistant gunner, radio operator, company clerk, AT gunner, and so on. For your basic kit (your required basic uniform and equipment items for a 5th Ranger from D-Day on) you will spend around $400 not including boots and a weapon. Again, depending on where you buy items and how much of a bargain hunter you are, this can go up and down. Period specific impressions such as D-Day impressions and winter combat items will require additional cost. There is no limit as to how much you want to put into an impression.

There are significant travel costs to the hobby. While we do carpool to many events, you may need to drive yourself to some of them at some point. Not all events are an hour away. Anything within a 6 hour drive from your location should be considered a possible event.

Blank ammunition is a constant cost per events where you will be firing your weapon. Buying it in bulk saves shipping and you should not always count on vendors or other re-enactors having ammo at an event for sale.

One of the biggest costs in the hobby is committing time to the unit. It will take a significant amount of time researching, acquiring, assembling, and physically attending events to get it right and do justice to the unit you are representing. Above all else we should remember the veterans we are trying to honor and the public we are trying to educate about the actions and sacrifices made not so long ago by so many brave individuals. The more you put into it, the more you'll get out. Members will be kept in the flow of information and online resources are at your disposal. YOU DECIDE YOUR OWN LEVEL OF INVOLVMENT IN THE UNIT.

Who is the enemy?

There is a Axis side to reenacting. Almost every branch of the armed forces of most nations that were involved in WWII have a reenactment equivalent. From US Paratroopers, Air Crews, and Armored Divisions to Russians, German SS, paratroops, and Heer forces, to Polish forces, British troops, and even a few French resistance fighters. The primary opponent is the German re-enactor SS, Heer, and German paratroops (FJ) are the main opponents at many events. Some of them speak German and it is recommended you learn some basics in the language. For the most part, they are not actual Germans. They are fellow re-enactors, many of which have Allied impressions also. Keep in mind, German re-enactors portray individuals fighting for their country just as we portray individuals fighting for ours. They are not Nazis or National Socialists and none of us condone that idealology or their practices.

Can I have another impression?

Members of the 5th Ranger Infantry Battalion Re-enacting Society Inc. can take on as many impressions as they like AS INDIVIDUALS. They may also be members of other organizations. However; as a member of the 5th Rangers; your pirmary impression when re-enacting at events in the company of your fellow members must be that of a 5th Ranger. Specail cases will be handled on an individual basis by the Battalion C.O. Its highly preffered that you make the 5th R.I.B. Inc. your home organization.

Whats the story on CAI M1 Garand receivers and rifles?

The CAI (and Lithgow) receiver is not a “bad” receiver. However, some have failed, formed cracks, or had problems with GI parts fitted to them and there are a handful of “recall” type warnings; such as on the Fulton Armory website. This led to the view that there are “bad” CAI receivers on the market. Whether that "bad" relates to safety, to functioning, or to reliability varies depending on the weapon.
Compounding the problem is the average shooter or armature gunsmith doesn't have the knowledge, gauges, or expertise to know "good" from "bad”.
For starters, the CAI M1 Garand receivers by design and critical part dimensions were based on the receiver being made from a hammer forged piece of steel. The CAI receiver is made from a casting. To get the same strength from a casting as from a forging, dimensions either have to be changed (i.e. increased) or the level of strength reduced.
Since many of the dimensions are critical to reliable functioning and cannot be changed, the level of safety in a cast receiver is less than that of a forged receiver. Fortunately, the level of safety in the M1 design is so inherently high any reduction is still likely be well above any minimum needed for normal use and service life.
Secondly, the M1 receiver was designed to be made with 1930's machine tools and techniques. The time, labor, skill, and tooling costs necessary to make an M1 receiver that way today would be cost prohibitive. Critical angles, curves, and dimensions are difficult to duplicate with today's techniques. CAI didn't always get them right.
Regarding the information at Fulton Armory, every reputable M1 armorer, refuses to build on CAI receivers. Sometimes it's for safety reasons; sometimes it's for other dimensional errors. Regardless, experience has taught them all it's just not worth the hassle.
If you have a CAI receiver M1 rifle and you’ve had no problems with it, don’t consider yourself lucky. Most of them work fine. Some are OK; some aren't. Some aren't perfect but their imperfections would never be noticed unless inspected by a competent armorer with an in-depth knowledge of the M1 design.
Bottom line, they are not, never have been, and never will be the equal of a USGI receiver.

Whats an ASN?

ASN stands for "Army Serial Number". This is your ID number that appears on your dogtags and other ID papers. The first two numbers of the ASN for enlisted men reflect the area of induction of the soldier. For an automatic ASN generator, go here: http://www.hardscrabblefarm.com/ww2/ For more information on dogtags, vist the "Strictly GI" website here: http://users.skynet.be/jeeper/page82.html